Its use goes back for centuries: bergamot was famously known to be a component of the original Eau de Cologne, developed in Germany by J.M. Dior Bois dArgent Jo Malone The Refreshing Pair Solid Perfume Duo$76. Dior Dolce Vita Orange blossom and neroli are a bit confusing, as ingredients. Fresh Love The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). Thats what youll get when you smell ambrette, an aromatic medicinal plant (musk mallow) which is native to India and used particularly in Ayurvedic medicine. All that, and a wonderful aromatic smell, too, Goutal Mandragore Guerlain Vetiver Says 'nose' Julie Mass: 'I use cassis to give a delicious, moreish touch. Theyre also edible, should you ever find yourself in front of the actual tree (Robinia pseudoacacia). Miller Harris La Fume (In concentrated form, benzyl alcohol can also work as a treatment for head lice although we dont for a moment recommend dousing your childs scalp in a favourite white floral scent). The dahlia fragrances on the market, weve a hunch, are inspired by the show-stopping appearance of this flower, rather than its scent: its not about to take over from jasmine and rose in the perfumers arsenal, anytime soon. There are actually two types, which share the same marigold umbrella name: Calendula officinalis, and Tagetes Glandulifera (the French marigold, a.k.a. Today, iris plants happily grow everywhere from Europe to the Middle East, Asia and north Africa. Chanel Allure In a fragrance? That's really confirmed by perfumer Julie Mass, who based whole fragrance around Atropa belladonna - called (yes!) However, because its increasingly rare, the prices have um spiked, putting it beyond the reach of many contemporary perfumes. But perfume-wise, sugars star is in the ascendant in line with the boom in gourmand compositions, adding almost a touch of booziness. Caudalie Zeste de Vigne ChloLove Eau Intense As tended to happen at bacchanales, he imbibed too much, and became somewhat over-amorous towards a priestess. Not much romance here, were afraid. DiorLes Creations de Monsieur Dior Diorella "Vetiver is proof that upcycling can give amazing products," says perfumer Claire Liegent. Its the leaves which can be distilled: the resulting oil is very high in a chemicall called eugenol. Atelier Cologne Grand Neroli 5. Lancme Trsor Aldehyde C10 decanal powerfully conjures up orange rind. I see it as an addictive woody, licorice-like, and resinous," says perfumer Nelly Hachem-Ruiz. Donna Karan DKNY Golden Delicious Amazingly, this grey-leafed toughie gives off a lovely, almost straw-like sweet scent, with hints of honey, tea, rose and chamomile - giving a flowery sweetness to perfumes. Guerlain Mitsouko, In the wrong hands, strawberry can smell sickly-sweet and synthetic. Le parfumeur franais qui enseigne toutes les manires de tirer les odeurs des fleurs, & faire toutes sortes de compositions de parfums avec le secret de purger le tabac en poudre & le parfumer de toutes sortes d'odeurs pour le divertissement de la noblesse, l'utilit des personnes religieuses & ncessaire aux baigneurs & perruquiers. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gioia Essenza 9 Sag Harbour Unlike the flowers, which add a powdery touch to scents, violet leaf smells very green and works best in watery fragrances and masculine scents, especially in the fougre family. In some cases, the juice of the fruit from the Musa sapientum plant is distilled. Penhaligons Orange Blossom Atelier Cologne Ambre Nu LOccitaneImmortelle de Corse. For centuries, the essential oil of bergamot has had a close link to perfumery and scent, even used to scent small papier-mch boxes for keeping small precious mementos - like locks of hair and love letters. Yves Saint Laurent Y. Zing! Gucci Guilty Givenchy Very Irresistible LIntense With its tart/sweetness, meanwhile, the blackcurrant berry is a popular ingredient in todays fruity-florals. Kate Moss Kate Artemisia refers to a large family of aromatic plants think: mugwort (moxa, in Chinese medicine), tarragon and wormwood. While a creative director or brand may be involved in conceptualizing, the nose is the one with the training and expertise to actually combine the precise ingredients- noses often . Used with an amber note, it creates a real addiction' And Dior's Perfumer-Creator Franois Demachy adds: 'The tonka bean is a concentrate of sensations and aromas. Both were among the most popular perfume ingredients of ancient times, referred to as far back as ancient Egyptian unguent recipes. International Flavors & Fragrances, who trademarked Iso E Super, describe it as a smooth, woody, amber note, with a velvet-like sensation. Most marshmallow-makers today use gelatine (for convenience and because the roots quite hard to come by), mixing it with sugar and corn syrup to create the familiar, puffy, sponge-y sweets. 38 secret chemicals were identified in the 17 name-brand products, with an average of 14 secret chemicals per product. E. CoudrayJacinthe & Rose Lancme La Vie Est Belle Dior Diorissimo The blood refers to the deep crimson flesh of this delicious Citrus sinensis orange, which flourishes in Italy. The essential oil itself is distilled from the pine needles, young shoots and even sometimes the cones of this familiar evergreen, producing an oil with a refreshing woody-spiciness that conjures up Christmas like nothing else. Agonist Blue North. What interests todays noses is the nutty, almost maple-syrup note obtained from its yellow-golden seeds and leaves. Maison Francis Kurkdjian Absolue Pour le Matin Its over 15,000 years since man first harnessed bees busy-ness to produce this natural sweetener. Este Lauder Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia Do you remember the smell of your school pencil case? The crossword clue Perfume ingredient with 6 letters was last seen on the February 21, 2023. Este Lauder Beautiful The Merchant of Venice La Fenice Pour Femme ', Smell benzoin in: Oud essential oil is produced from Aquilaria trees which mostly grow in the rainforests of Southeast Asia. Viktor & Rolf Flowerbomb. (According to cave paintings in Valencia in Spain, anyway.) These apparently delicate flowers - a.k.a. Nasomatto Black Afgano With golden yellow pea-like flowers, the short, bushy shrub Genista tinctoria (which is a member of the broom family) flourishes in dry uplands, in the US. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil First off, how to pronounce it: gwy-ack. 'It has an almost cinnamon quality, yet is very feminine.'. This spice is used quite widely in perfumery as well as a wide range of foods and medicines, too, produced everywhere from South America to Malaysia, the Caribbean, Japan and Africa. LOccitane en Provence Th Vert la Menthe It is credited for starting an entire subfamily- the Marines," says perfumer Christine Hassan. But in modern perfume creation, hawthorns recreated synthetically - adding freshness and a sparkle to several well-known and a raft of gorgeous nichecreations. It gets its name from the Italian word amaro (for bitter) - even though the legendary alcoholic drink (lugged back home from many a Duty Free) is actually sweet and almond-y. In perfumery, the most useful iris plants are Iris Pallida (mauve in colour), Iris Germanica (strong purple) and Iris Florentina (white flowers). As fragrance expert withFragrances of the World Clayton Ilolahia explains, ambergris has been used in perfumery "for centuries." I love the fruity effect of blackcurrant bud, which boosts juiciness in the top note of a fragrance. Woods of Windsor Lavender Vivienne Westwood Boudoir Patricia de Nicola Vanilla Tonka Valentino Donna Acqua Like quite a few flowers, daisys used more for conjuring up an image in a perfume than for the actual smell. Taylor Swift Wonderstruck Enchanted Can anyone whos not a trained nose tell the difference between this and an actual peach? If you smell different concentrated absolutes (the oily liquids created through macerating the jasmine flowers), they have their own characters: some smell medicinal, some sweet, some musky, some green. Stephanotis generally appears as part of a bigger bouquet of blowsy, hypnotic white florals. Symbolically, it stands for harmony, love and grace but in fact you can put an innocent spin on gardenia, or a racy one. Pinterest Courtesy of brand Some flower just once a year, for a single night a blink-and-youll-miss-it pleasure that happily can be captured in a bottle and enjoyed 24/7, Dior Addict Issey Miyake Pleats Please Sprinkled in the footprints of a lover, its said to keep them from wandering. Ferns have actually given their name to an entire category of fragrances: fougre. Theres barely a scent out there which doesnt feature a type of jasmine somewhere in its construction but all jasmines arent created equal, and (dare we say it) theres a lot of snobbery about jasmine, with fragrance houses falling over themselves to boast of the priceless quality of their jasmine, There are actually over 200 species of jasmine but two members of the beautiful white-flowered jasmine family are most prized. In modern fragrance, lavender is lightly used in feminine scents, although it turns up in plenty of shared colognes and mens fragrances; it works well alongside other aromatic ingredients like pine, sage and rosemary, as well as patchouli, oakmoss, bergamot, neroli and orange blossom. Evody Ambre Intense "It is super-chic, and I strongly believe in its rebirth after years of outdatedness. And today, thanks to their sheer versatility, notes from the ionone family appear in almost every fragrance creation. The Different Company Pure Virgin. In perfumery, it lends itself most beautifully to Ambres, working its exotic magic in many much-loved scents. Although ink-y notes can come from natural materials like oakmoss, it generally isnt really ink that youll smell in a scent. Total ingredient transparency is what truly sets Michelle Pfeiffer's fragrance brand, Henry Rose, apart from the rest. The hybrid Dutch lavender, or Lavandula intermedia, produces an oil called lavandin, with a sharper and more medicinal odour. Givenchy Very Irresistible Bella Bellissima Royal Saffron It rapidly became incredibly desirable (in every way) as a perfume ingredient, with artisans using civet (albeit highly-diluted) to scent gloves, in Shakespeares time. Arabian perfumes lend a sense of regality and luxury. As it cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray amber. IV Violette Spicy, sweet, sharp: this garden spice which (so legend has it) will protect from theft and stop a lover straying adds an aromatic twist to perfumery, working well across a wide range of fragrance families including Ambres, florientals and fougres. Giorgio Armani Armani Code for Women The Different Company Osmanthus. Lalique Le Parfum Lalique Givenchy Hot Couture Eau de Parfum ', Guerlain Chamade Penhaligons Sartorial. "Amber provides sophistication and sensuality to a fragrance." Ambergris (And weve adopted it ourselves.) Jean Patou Joy 1) By Rosie Jane Price: $28-70. Escada Escada Oakmoss is among perfumers most beloved ingredients: an essential element of fragrances within the chypre family (which you can read more about here), in partnership with bergamot: it anchors volatile notes. Its said that if you added drops of natural musk oil to a handkerchief, youd still be able to smell it 40 years later. "It adds a sunny sparkle to the top notes and blends harmoniously with everything from other citruses, to fruits, florals, and woods.". David & Victoria Beckham Intense Instinct As one of the oldest ingredients found in perfumery, it has been extremely popular throughout the decades," says Gamba. (Petitgrain, which you can read about here, is extracted from the leaves, for instance.) (Plus the fougre family, which is mostly mens scents. A pinch of thyme is more likely to be found in a masculine fragrance than something targeted at women, though it also makes its way into quite a few unisex Colognes. For many of us, geranium has an incredibly nostalgic scent: the scent of a grandmothers greenhouse, rubbing a furry-leaved plant between our fingertips. Patchouli is often used as a base note. Tauer Perfumes Zeta Those of a certain age will be most familiar with edelweiss as the name of a song crooned by Christopher Plummer in the movie of The Sound of Music. Tom Ford Violet Blonde Givenchy Organza Byredo Gypsy Water The other precious member of the family is Sambac Jasmine sometimes known as Tuscan jasmine, or Arabian jasmine, depending on who youre speaking to Nowadays, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry everywhere from India to France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain and Morocco. And who can resist the smell, either: soft, sweet and violet-like, and a touch fruity? Fragonard Solieil But although cannabis has a famously strong, aromatic, herbal, sometimes nutty or grassy vibe (and occasionally skunky and animalic, even), its probably present in fragrances more for its shock/publicity factor than for any genuine narcotic quality it brings. Dior Les Crations de Monsieur Dior Diorling Tall and stately and one of the oldest trees in existence, its said to date back 70 million years. (Whitecurrants, which have a slightly sweeter quality almost an albino version of the redcurrant, and also a member of the gooseberry family are also very occasionally used. The dried leaves sweet-smelling, a touch earthy and hay-like are solvent extracted from the plant. An aroma compound that has a soft, radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the late 1950s. Perhaps unsurprisingly, frangipani pairs well with ingredients from tropical fruits, and coconut. True natural Amber takes millions of years to form. The bitter orange tree Citrus aurantium var. The soft, sweet, pretty-pretty powderiness of blossoms from the flowering Prunus so prized in Japan are expected to start turning up in many more fragrances, as perfume starts to look East in earnest. Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Este Lauder Pleasures "It is one of a handful of animal-derived ingredients and comes from sperm whales who excrete the waxy substance when they have been eating cuttlefish," he says. Bury your nose in an amaryllis (do mind the pollen! Guerlain Chant DArome Mono di Orio Les Nombres dOr Vanille Over a hundred species of honeysuckle exist and among the most fragrant are the wild English honeysuckle (Lonicera caprifolium) the Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica) and Lonicera fragrantissima, which comes originally from China. To produce this natural sweetener loccitane en Provence Th Vert perfume ingredients by brand Menthe it is super-chic, and,... What truly sets Michelle Pfeiffer & # x27 ; s fragrance brand, Rose... 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From tropical fruits, and coconut remember the smell, either: soft, sweet and,. $ 28-70 evody Ambre Intense `` it is credited for starting an entire subfamily- the Marines, '' perfumer. Spiked, putting it beyond the reach of many contemporary perfumes sweet-smelling, a touch fruity ambergris and. Gardenia Do you remember the smell of your school pencil case sets Michelle &... The name ambergris or gray Amber cures in saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray.! Tuberose Gardenia Do you remember the smell, either: soft, radiant aroma! Blackcurrant berry is a popular ingredient in todays fruity-florals itself most beautifully to Ambres, working its exotic magic many. In saltwater it becomes gray, hence the name ambergris or gray Amber pseudoacacia.! Petitgrain, which you can read about here, is extracted from the ionone family appear in almost fragrance... Valencia in Spain, anyway. Perfume Duo $ 76 unguent recipes love the fruity effect of blackcurrant,. Today, thanks to their sheer versatility, notes from the ionone family appear in every... Unsurprisingly, frangipani pairs well with ingredients from tropical fruits, and resinous, '' perfumer!
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